Walter & Group...
From Troy Miller :
Morning Gordy ?
(sitting in my office,
looking out the window at the blizzard coming
down?)
I?m a bit confused
about Tim?s reply. ?they do line up guides where rod is most
stable under load.?
Sounds to me like
they?re finding the spine? To me, I like to find the spine of at least the
mid and butt sections, since they are the ones that have the greatest potential
to result in torsionally-induced deflection of the rod tip upon unloading.
The tip section does not really have enough stiffness to pull the trailing
line out of plane much, so I don?t worry about it. I just try to mount the
guides to make the rod look straight like most companies David spoke
with.
I?ve got a couple of
older production rods that always throw a micro-curve, whether you cast it
perfectly overhead, canted at 45 degrees, or completely sidearm (not just for
me, but for everyone who casts them), and I wondered about it for years.
Then when I got involved in bamboo (where we always spine our sections),
the light came on about these tubular rods. Maybe the sections were not
spined properly. When I spined the sections, I found them to have a
significant spine, and the guides were off by 90 to 120 degrees. A perfect
storm for an involuntary curve cast that you CAN?T kill. I think I?ll
always spine my sections, no matter what material they?re made from. It
only takes 5 minutes, and it?s my opinion that it?s one thing I CAN control that
may make a difference. Course, I?m not making 500 rods a day
either?
Regards,
Troy
Miller
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Troy,
...... Suspect you are back up there above the Arctic Circle.
I interpreted Tim's statement the same way.
Back in the late 30's before I knew anything about a thing called "spine" or "spline", I remember my grandfather complaining that his bamboo fly rod had taken a "set". He tried to soak it and then straighten it by placing it loaded between wood blocks covered with felt. That rod did straighten, but when casting he always got an unwanted curved layout. Eventually, he had his rod maker replace the guides but that didn't solve the problem. Of course, he had been using it in the salt water where all kinds of bad things happened to our bamboo rods necessitatihg re-varnishing and sometimes having the rod guides removed when the silk wrappings rotted and the guides corroded. Sometimes the hexagonal shaft would even set with a bit of a twist.
Once, he became so exasperated with these rods taking a set, that he had one made up with two guides at each guide interval, at 180 degrees from one another. His custom tip top was made of brass. The ring was centered so the line could go through it from either direction. Since the stripper guides were heavy framed with red agate rings, I'm sure that rod was heavy with all that additional guide weight. The same thread wrap was used for both opposing guides at the same time. I never cast that rod.
Years later, I now wonder if that rod spine had actually shifted ...???!!!
Gordy
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TITANIUM WIRE TIPPET
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From Bob Tabbert :
Hi Gordy, here is a neat u tube presentation on tying titanium tippets by guide friend Bill Scherer,
Click on the following link to see the Titanium Bite Tippet video complete version: http://www.youtube.com/wetieit
Bob
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Bob.....
That Titanium wire is amazing material.
I experimented with it and found it worked fine to use it just as shown by the video. Worked great for toothy critters such as small and medium barracuda and bluefish.
When used on big sharks and very large cuda's here in the Florida Keys and on dog toothed tuna in Australia, I found that the modified Albright knot would come apart during a long battle quite often. Worked better when I simply used my fingers to tie a standard Albright knot modified only by making the final pass through the wire loop at the end 3 X, then bringing the bitter end over and making a multiple half hitch knot would back on itself and tightened.
Worked even better when I made compound shock tippet by tying a short piece of 40 lb. test nylon mono to my class tippet and then doing the modified Albright to the wire using the heavier material.
Having either Titanium or Stainless steel wire end facing the fly would catch weeds. I simply bend the wire in a crank shape and "turn the crank" 'til it breaks nice and flush. No protrusion to catch on anything. No tools needed.
Some of the anglers used tiny stainless steel swivels or 1/8th" stainless steel rings. That never appealed to me, though it works.
That titanium wire IS wire so almost no matter how small in diameter it yields very few if any strikes by many of our species. Spanish Maackerel, for example, will follow the fly again and again and not take. As soon as I take the wire off, they strike. Of course, that means lots of fish cutting off ..... so I use many simple "quick tie" flies with long shank hooks and no wire.
Gordy
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REQUEST
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Hi Gordy,
You had sent out an email about parallel loops and the email
had an attachment showing loops in vertical and horizontal
plains.
Do you still have a copy of that email and
attachment?
I have misplaced my copy and cannot find it.
Could you send me another copy.
Thanks,
Ruben