Walter & Group...
From Gavin Platz. My comments in italics. Gavin has done a great job on this quiz ! (I figured he would as a well accomplished salty guide and tackle business owner for years in Australia.) Note that his answers are direct, short and speak to the question.
I've taken the time to add some detailed comments. So.... go through these and digest the answers. Perhaps print it out. Then compare with some of the other answers which I'll send, tomorrow. G. :
Gavin &
Group...
Under the master title of FLY TACKLE, we
now have FLY REELS.
Let's begin with a little quiz . Try
to use SHORT ANSWERS followed by longer ones only if necessary
:
1.) What do you consider the two primary purposes of a fly reel ? Hold the flyline and in the case of big fish hold backing enough so you don?t get spooled.
Agree. (To store the fly line and to assist in fighting a large fish.) G.
2.) Name as many materials as you can used for the main frames and spools of fly reels. Graphite, Cast Aluminium, Barstock Aluminium, Titanium,
Yes. Years ago, some reels were even made of steel. Also, some were made primarily of wood. I guess those are now collectors items. G.
3.) List the advantages and disadvantages of each. In order of Price, strength and weight
I figured you listed them in your answer to #2. in that order. However,
Barstock high grade aluminum and Titanium reels are expensive. They are strong, generally well made, and relatively light for size and strength. These reels are usually matched with better drag systems and have more durable finish. (Titanium reel frames actually stand up fine in salt water with no finish at all.)
The first graphite composite reels I tried were not well made. Spool alignment wasn't always perfect and they were fitted with poorly functioning drags. Newer graphite reels are better. They are light and strong. Corrosion is not a factor. Their drag systems have been improved, but don't come up to the standards usually found on the better barstock aluminum and titanium reels. One advantage is that they are quite inexpensiive. They are surprisingly light.
I've been field testing two brands of modern graphite composite reels. Used for small tarpon, I find they work just fine. One has a better drag system by far. G.
4.) BRIEFLY describe the following
types of fly reels:
a. Direct
drive. Handles move with
spool Yes. As
the fish runs, the spool turns and so does the attached handle.
G.
b. Anti-reverse. Handles move independent of spool Yes. The spool turns as the fish runs while the handle doesn't. G.
c.
"Automatic". Press a button and reel retrieves
line Yes. Uses a spring load
system. G
d. Dual mode. As handles are wound forward drag is adjusted higher to lock up, but spool still goes in reverse separate to handles .
Yes. Putting it another way : It behaves as a direct drive reel when you grasp the handle and turn it. If you are not turning the handle, it behaves as an anti-reverse reel. Some consider that "the best of both Worlds". This design results in a bit more weight. ( My personal preference is the direct drive reel.) G.
e.
Multiplier. Geared fly reel Yes. Each turn of the handle results in multiple turns of
the spool during retrieve. G.
5.) Why have so many reels used for trout fishing had narrow spools ? because they only hold the line.
In some cases, true. Most, however, will hold the line and a modest amount of backing. One advantage of the narrow spool is that as you reel in fly line, it is less likely to bunch up on one side of the spool so you don't need to move the line from one side to the other to prevent that. This becomes much more of a problem when reeling in large amounts of backing after a long run; a situation not usually encountered when trout fishing. (Very large and big sea run trout are exceptions.) G.
6.) List some features you would think to be important on a fly reel used on a 3 wt. rod for trout fishing. Light
Yes. And just big enough to hold your fly line. G.
7.) You are about to fish for Atlantic salmon with a single handed # 9 fly rod. What features would you look for on a reel to add ? Good drag and 150yds of backing + line
Agree. Despite this, in some areas there is an elitist mystique about Atlantic salmon fishing which result in some anglers spending more money than necessary at they seek expensive, "classic" reels. I guess it also has a lot to do with tradition. G.
8.) Your buddy has a 14' # 10/11 Spey rod. He's about to go on a trip to New Brunswick to fish for Atlantic salmon and wants to know what to look for in a suitable reel. What do you advise him ? Good drag and large enough Diameter to hold a very large Spey flyline, 150 mtrs of backing.
Yes. Expert two handed salmon anglers were recently polled re their preferences when Ted Juracsik of Tibor reels decided to produce one. Some of the suggestions included conservative color preferences and a drag knob assembly which clicked into position as it was turned. The large arbor design was preferred. Some of these anglers wanted to stay with the wide spool "traditional salmon reel" design which had a wide spool and double handle. G.
9.) Let's consider a reel which has a
wide spool.
a. Advantages. Holds more backing. Yes. (At least, more backing than the same diameter reel with a narrow spool.)
b. Disadvantages. Backing needs to be layed with your finger Yes. Fly line, too. ("Manual level wind".)
10.) What features would you consider important on a salt water fly reel to be used for bonefishing ? Backing Capacity 150 yds + flyline, good drag, balances on selected rod, built for the salt. Lg Arbor is good too.
Agree. "Built for the salt" says a lot ! This includes a frame tough enough to withstand things which happen in a skiff at high speed on a rough day as well as suberb corrosion resistance. Most bonefishermen now prefer the large arbor designs because a large bonefish will make a blistering run way out there and oft turn right around and run right back at the angler. The large arbor reel takes a lot more line back with each turn of the handle. One could do that with a multiplier reel, too..... but most fishing clubs and tournament rules forbid the use of those designs.
We prefer that they not be too heavy, either.
Because a 10lb + bonefish may "explode" as he feels the hook point, the drag should be smooth with low start-up inertia. G.
11.) What features would you look for as you purchase a salt water reel to be used for big game such as giant tarpon ? Minimum 300yds backing, good Bullet proof drag, Lg Arbor for line retrieval and line memory.
Agree. As with the bonefish reels, it must stand up to salty conditions. I like your term, "bullet proof drag". In past years I've burned out the drag surfaces and washers on many less well made reels to the point that I learned how to replace them myself. Modern big game well made fly reels have drags which last a long time even when catching big fish on heavy tippets. Capt. Jake Jordan used Charlton big game reels with sealed Graphite composite drag surfaces for sailfish and marlin as well as tuna. He told me that he's never seen one of those drags burn out.
The drag system needs to have a wide and reproduceable range of settings. It must be smooth throughout the range and have a low start-up inertia.
A direct drive reel with a rim drag, also.
I want those reels to be made of machined bar stock material. Not stamped or jointed. Not moulded. I avoid the multi post reels (Although the old Gar Wood design Fin Nor reels and the Capt. Bob McChristian SEAMASTER reels were very good.)
As with any reel to be used in the salt, I want one with type II or even type III hard anodized finish. I avoid reels which are "painted" or powder coated.
I look for a reel which has the drag knob on the side of the reel opposite the handle. I want that knob to be big enough to grasp easily . G.
12.) BRIEFLY list 5 different types of fly reel drag systems. Clicker, Cork/Rulon, multi discs, Inner and out cones, graphite composite.
Yes. (I
guess we could stretch it a bit and call a rim drag a "drag system" ....????
) Years ago, some reels were fitted with a simple flap of
leather which could be pressed down onto the line or backing.
G.
13.) What is a "Casette reel " ? Spool has a frame and the cassette clips onto the spool frame to make the spool that is then clipped on the backplate.
Yes. A company called STH came out with those several years ago. I think the first ones were made in Argentina. The cassette spools were made of plastic. I understand they are still available. G.
14.) What is a LARGE ARBOR FLY REEL ? Centre section of spool is increased in Diameter.
Yes. In order to maintain sufficient line/backing capacity, the reel designers made most of them with markedly increased diameter of the entire spool and reel frame.
a. Advantages ? Decreased line memory, increased line retrevial ( if actual Dia of fly reel is also increased as the arbor is increased. Better leverage on drag.
Yes. We'll cover "better drag leverage" in a later comment. G.
b. Disadvantatges ? all the above as a negative.
Well.... One disadvantage is that they are large and cumbersome which can be a problem when storing them, traveling with them, or placing them in skiff rod racks not designed specifically for them. G.
15.) Should the handle on a fly reel be on the right side if you are right handed ? Yes.
I agree with you, Gavin ! HOWEVER many feel that the handle should be on the other side. I think Flip Pallot said it best during our Fly Casting In Salt Water Workshop at the Conclave at Loveland, Co. last summer when this subject came up. Most felt that that was an argument which "will never be won". Probably a simple matter of angler preference ... though as Flip said, "Anybody who has ever fought a blue marlin on a fly rod will always choose to have the handle on the right side if he's right handed !" G.
16.) Why ? If a fish runs at you, you can wind faster with your dominant hand.
Yes. Also, a matter of "winding muscle fatigue"
after the second or third hour of fighting a big fish.
Sometimes when the fish runs toward me, I turn the reel handle side up and
rapidly wind like crazy to gain line back as fast as I can.
G.
17.) Reel makers talk about "VENTING". What do they mean ? Holes in the reel to dry the backing.
Yes. Also, makes it easier to flush the salt out of the backing and line without stripping it all off. Another important reason : To make the reel lighter. The material within those holes adds up to enough weight to make a difference. G.
18.) Can you name a reel maker who claims to produce a reel with a SEALED DRAG ? Jack Charlton.
Yes
! G.
19.) Some reel manufactures claim
that their reels are made to very tight "aircraft
tolerances."
a. Advantages ? Last longer with heavy use, line will not get caught behind spool or frame. Yes. G.
b. Disadvantages ? flexing causes rubbing and the above points as a negative.
Agree. ESPECIALLY when grit gets into the reel.
I recall fishing the surf at Cape Hatteras one day for red drum. The wind was howling and the fine sand blowing everywhere. I had sand in my ears and eyes ....... down my neck and all over my tackle. Some of our guys were using reels said to be built "to fine aircraft tolerances". They bound up. My Tibor reel was built purposely with more open tolerances. It never did bind. G.
20.) Several years ago, Mel Krieger and Steve Able designed a special fly reel foot which was marketed by the name of "The Able Arm". It was first sold in a California tackle shop. What was it ? An extension arm to keep the reel away from your clothes, with heavy reel the reel was carried further forward under the rod hand thus feeling lighter and some mechanical advantage.
Yes. With the reel in that position, Mel felt that it would serve as less of a counterweight when casting. The "arm" is an extension of the reel foot which places the reel a couple of inches below the reel seat and forward toward the rod tip. I don't have the experience of having fished with one. (Can't help but feel that it added some weight as they were trying to get rid of the feeling of weight. ) G.
21.) What is meant by the term, "SPOOL OVERRUN" ? drag to light and when pulled the spool keeps going but the line doesn?t keep going off and causes a knot in the spool .
Yes. Also
called a "backlash". When really bad, some call it a "bird's
nest.". G.
22.) What are the advantages and disadvantages to using a DIRECT DRIVE REEL for large salt water fish ?when you wind you gain line , Knuckle busters for the uneducated. uncomplicated.
Yes. Many experienced big game fly fishers prefer this design because they can gain better control of the large fish as the battle comes to a conclusion. They have learned through lots of experience to place much increased pressure to finish off the fish without changing the drag setting. Pressure is applied "to the max" .... if the fish lurches or leaps, the angler has only to respond quickly by letting go of the handle with or without bowing. As you said, this can be a "knuckle buster" for the inexpert angler. G.
23.) List the advantages and disadvantages to using an ANTI-REVERSE REEL for these fish ? Proper technique of pump and wind to gain line, very safe on big fish or for beginners, usually a little more complicated to dismantle.
Yes. More difficult to "finish off" a large tired fish for an expeditious release. That disadvantage can be partially offset by skilled use of a rim drag. They are a bit heavier for the same line capacity reel. Also, more things to malfunction. G.
24.) Large arbor reels with increased diameter have become popular for use when fishing large, powerful fish. Why ? Good line retrevial, less line memory with stiff lines, good leverage on drags and drags work less.
Yes. G.
25.) Do you set the drag on your reels ? Yes How do you do that ? Pull on line and set what feels good to me, maybe until you get used to it set the drag on a set of scales, 30% of tippet Breaking Strain.
Yes. That is one good way to do it. For fish in the medium size range (not marlin or sailfish) I like Lefty's way of doing it ..... placing the fly line between your lips and adjusting the drag 'til you can just pull it out.* Requires no scales or any other fancy devices. When fishing for sailfish and marlin I use 20 lb. tippet. I set my drag as a "strike drag" to a 2 lb. level using a scale. (Only 1/10th the class tippet break strength.) I mark it with a grease pencil. Then I set the "fight drag" at 4 lbs. I use a direct drive big game fly reel and apply more pressure at the end of the game. I use a cotton glove and the rim drag if I feel the need to go beyond that rather than setting the drag higher. Even though probably "not good form" I find myself guilty of sometimes pressing the fly line against the cork grip for temporary increase in drag. Especially on a very long drawn out battle with big tarpon. Works for me.
Some of the guides fishing giant tarpon off the West Coast of Florida started using heavy tippets and racking their drag settings down to almost the breaking point of the tippet. They called it "the Homosassa Drag". I've never done that. I once fished with one of those guides who took my outfit and set the drag so I almost couldn't pull it out. I made it clear that this wasn't my style .... PERIOD. They had different styles of fighting those fish. Some didn't bow or place the rod tip down when the fished jumped. One of them wouldn't pump in a fish. He'd keep the rod bent and simply keep reeling whenever he could. G.
* LEFTY KREH'S ULTIMATE GUIDE TO FLY FISHING, by Lefty Kreh, p. 60.
25.) What happens to the drag setting on your fly reel when a large fish makes a long run ? Drag increases as Diameter of spool decreases due to lost backing.
Yes. An important concept ! (I sometimes ask that question on a Master Oral exam. Many get it wrong.) Even if you don't touch that drag setting, as the fish makes a long run and backing melts from the reel, the "effective spool/line diameter" decreases so the radius between the center point of the spool arbor and the surface of the remaining backing decreases. This can be seen as a lever arm. As that lever arm gets shorter, it gets more and more difficult to pull line from the spool ..... an increase in drag resistance. If this increases too much, the tippet will break and the fish be lost.
SO....
As that happens and the fish is off to Kindom Come, we must NEVER increase the drag setting ! Best, to decrease it.
Floyd Franke discussed a formula with which he translated this into numbers. **
It goes like this: FD is the FUNCTIONAL DRAG. D is the original drag setting in lbs.. Let R1 designate the original radius of the spool and line when the drag was set. Let R2 designate that radius after line is stripped from the spool.
FD = R1/R2 X D
Let's say the drag was set at 4 lbs. If the original diameter (R1) was 4 inches, and the remaining diameter (R2) got down to 2" as the fish ran out, then : FD = 4" / 2" X 4lbs.
FD = 8 lbs.
That drag resistance was DOUBLED as the arbor + line dimeter decreased to half it's original measurement !
** FISH ON ! by Floyd Franke, p. 60.
G.
26.) What, if anything, do you do about it ? Decrease drag setting as this happens or preset your drag beforehand so this isn?t a worry.
Yes. G.
27.) Can you name an author who used the term, "FUNCTIONAL DRAG " ? Floyd Franke. (See # 25. ..... second # 25 for which I apologize !)
28.) What did he mean by that ? A drag that does the job over and over again.
One way to put
it. Another way to look at it: Drag as a function of diameter of the
spool arbor + remaining line .
G.
29.) Of what importance is the position of the handle with respect to the center of the reel ? the closer to the centre of the reel the less distance the reel hand travels to retrieve a set length of line. But can feel awkward when you first use a reel that has that option. It?s like it?s high geared so can be harder to wind, further from centre lower geared easier to wind.
Yes. Also, the closer to the center, the faster one can wind. G.
30.) One reel company made a reel designed with what they called a "PLANETARY GEAR SYSTEM". Can you name that manufacturer ? !!!???? Valentine maybe.
You got it ! Some models were made so that the handle would turn in its own axis as the line was pulled from the reel. The spool turned but the handle didn't go round with respect to the frame. They are geared, multiplier reels.
Have fun with these
!
Gordy