Shooting techniques / Haul

Walter & Group.........

I'm indebted to Troy Miller for lighting my fuse when he suggested that we have discussion on  SHOOTING TECHNIQUES.

We all know, I'm sure, that there are a number of ways of gaining more line shoot.  Many of these are designed to launch more line by reducing friction betwen the guides and the line.  Others help reduce friction between the fly line and the rod blank, itself.  The latter include ways to help prevent, "line slap".  Still others are meant to minimize slack either proximal to the guides or betwen them.  We even have a trick or two to minimize friction between the tip tip and the fly line.  Certain rod guides offer less resistance either by the materials of which they are made, their positon on the rod or their height.

Let's have your suggestions.

Gordy

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From Jim Higgens:    (My comments will appear in Jim's text in bold italics.)

Gordy

 

My answer to your question of "How much line is he likely to be able to shoot?"

 

The rule of thumb is that you should be able to shoot one half of the line out side of the rod tip, but my experience is that advanced casters will do somewhat better.  With 60 feet of line out side the rod tip the caster should be able to shoot 30 feet based on the rule of thumb, but being that he is an advanced caster I would expect closer to 45 to 50 feet depending on how much line he can shoot into the last backcast.

 

agree.    G.

 

Your example said nothing about the density altitude and for a lower density altitude the fly line will go further.  This is only based on my personal experience.  I cast better in Montana than I do in Seattle.

 

I've found you are correct.  Makes a difference.  Humidity can make a difference, too.  I've had some champion fly casters be amazed by this when they cast from the deck of my flats skiff in the Florida Keys and they find they suddenly become ordinary casters like us mere mortals.  They do, however, learn to make some subtle adjustments and after a few days, improve.  The only caster I've had on my deck who has had no problem with this change is Steve Rajeff.  Whether or not the tiny bit of difference in gravity plays a part, I don't know.       G.

 

I am not familiar with Tom White's "Gitzet Fish".  Where can I find out about It?

 

I'll give a detailed description a another time.  Remind me if I forget.     G.

 

I am not sure that I understand some of Al Crise's answer to the various fish by location.

 

For example on the "Largemouth Bass on a Texas Lake":  Why is an 8 ft rod selected over say a 9 ft rod?  If I were to show up for this fishing with a Sage 890/4 Xi2 what would the disadvantage be?  Secondly why a sink tip line instead of a full sinking line.  The full sinking will stay down better and are more fun/easier to cast. 

 

We'll ask Al to explain.  I can't .... except to wonder if it is because the sink tip line allows easier pickup at a distance than the full sinking line.     G.

 

Again I don't understand the short rod for the Smallmouth Bass on an Arkansas River.  Unless this is a small overgrown river I would think that a longer rod would be better for line control.

 

I totally agree with your comments on the Tarpon.

 

Got into them at dawn this am ...... they were locked on shrimp and I didn't have my box of shrimp flies aboard.  Shame on me !    G.

 

 

Thanks

Jim Higgins

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From Steve Hollinsed :-

 

Hi Gordy,

 

If I may be permitted to ask one more question about haul functions?

 

In Gary's response below, 2 functions of the haul are listed. 2) to increase rod load and 5) to reduce the needed stroke length and rod arc while keeping good loops.  

 

It seems to me that both of these cannot be correct at the same time and they seem contradictory to each other.

 

My understanding is that anytime, regardless of cause, that the rod is loaded more, the stroke length and casting arc must be increased to facilitate SLP.  This additional load can come from more power, more line outside the rod tip, faster tempo in the casting stroke and even the wind, but regardless of the cause, the more the rod is loaded the longer the stroke and arc need to be. 

 

So, if hauling increases rod loading, and greater rod loading reguires longer strokes and arc, would we not have to teach to use longer strokes and arc with the haul?  

 

It seems to me that hauling does not significantly increase rod loading in a well performed cast where the haul mirrors the rod tip.  Perhaps I am missing something here.

 

Thanks,

Steve

 

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Steve....    Good point.  That one passed me by  ..... I think you are right about that.  Gary may wish to state his reasoning.

 

Gordy

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From Tom Zacoi :

 

Good Afternoon Dr. Hill,

 

I don't know if I ever shared this quote from the late Joe Brooks, "When it comes to catching trout on a fly, the only expert is the fish," words to live by!

 

While reviewing Mr. Gowans' response to you, regarding the history of the double haul, I remembered a biography in Doctor Jack Berrymans' book Fly-Fishing Pioneers & Legends of the Northwest. In chapter 14, Doctor Berryman wrote these words about Maurice "Mooch" Abraham (1867-1936). "Portland Fly Tier, Fly Fishing Mentor, and Originator of the Double-Haul Technique." Doctor Berryman continues on page 114, "When the Portland Casting Club reorganized in 1931, Mooch became its first honorary life member...It was at this time, because of a shoulder injury from a previous automobile accident, that Mooch began practicing what became the 'double-haul' technique in fly casting."

 

Regarding demonstrating the double-haul technique; I don't recall if anyone else mentioned this teaching aid, but when I guided for a local fly shop I saved all the broken rods. I cut off the shaft, except for the first few inches which included the hook keeper, leaving the grip and reel seat in tact. In addition, I saved the 3/8 inch rubber bands that circle the lettuce at the grocery store. I then attached them to the hook keeper and viola-a nifty, thrifty teaching aid to help people learn how to double-haul. 

 

I preface the rest of this by saying that I am of the opinion, that a student should have some mastery of the basic pick-up and lay-down before moving on to haul. By the way, this was not my novel idea, I learned it from Joan, Lefty, Floyd Franke, John Gayesky-someone much smarter than yours truly, which could be almost anyone!

 

The set up and technique: Ask the student to hold the rod in their dominant hand and pinch the rubber band in between the thumb and index finger in their line hand. As the student begins the back cast, she or he should simultaneously pull the rubber band in the opposite direction. When they stop the rod on the back cast, the tension in the rubber band will  automatically pull their line hand up slightly and back toward their rod hand. On the forward cast: Instruct the student to bring the rod forward, simultaneously pulling the rubber band away in the opposite direction; when they stop the rod going forward, the tension in the rubber band will automatically pull their line hand up slightly and back to meet their rod hand.

 

Have salubrious day,

Z

 

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Tom.....  I love flycasting history !  You have provided a new piece of it.

 

The rubber band trick does work.  For longer hauls, I've used those long colored rubber bands found in stationary stores

 

For teaching and demo, I affix my yarn fly to the butt of my fly rod with  thick blue rubber bands.  I've found that most rubber bands are soon ruined in salt water in the tropics, but not the ones used here on broccoli ..

 

Gordy

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