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Walter & Group...
[GH] We've seen a lot of casting mechanics and some physics related to hauls. This speaks to how and why hauls work. Especially useful for discussions between instructors, though not necessarily for teaching fly casting.
Now, lets look at a few practical fishing considerations. Most come from my own fishing experiences.
I think we can agree that most fly fishers use their hauls to increase line speed so they can more easily increase distance and ease of casting. Some additional considerations:
1.) Hauls (and casts, in general) work better when we keep our fly lines CLEAN.
2.) Also helps to keep them lubricated.
3.) Hauls work better when the proper fly line is chosen for the fishing task.
4.) A haul made almost directly in line with the butt section of the fly rod is more efficient than when the pull is made at a considerable angle to the rod.
5.) For many fishing applications, expert casters can have good results by making a short, sharp haul during the, "speed-up-and-stop" at the end of the cast. This doesn't work well for less experienced casters because it is harder for them to time properly.
6.) Some fly fishers switch hands when conditions dictate the need... i.e. wind from the casting hand side, for short casts with obstructions overhead and on the casting side, etc. For most fishers who are not ambidextrous, the cast with a haul isn't easy. For me, the most difficult task when casting with the "opposite hand" is proper execution of the haul.
7. Re. 6.) - When teaching yourself to cast with the non-dominant hand, the lack of so-called, "muscle memory" forces us to concentrate on each step of the cast. We can help learn this by casting with both hands simultaneously either with strung rods, or by pantomime. This won't work with hauling, because it requires the use of each hand to do that. For those reasons, learning to cast and haul with the "opposite" hands is much more difficult. Doing this, however, is a great way to force one to be aware of the timing details which, when heeded, will help reinforce proper timing for hauling with the primary hand as well.
8.) A smooth, well timed single haul can help pluck a longer line than otherwise from the water with minimal surface disturbance. This can be done following a vertical lift.
9.) Sometimes I get a weed or leaf stuck on my fly as I retrieve. I find that one of the quickest ways to get it off is to make a short, slow cast aimed right down to the water followed by quickly "snatching it back" with the rod as a haul is made.
10.) When my fly gets stuck on a log, I can sometimes make a roll cast to pluck it off. (Learned that little trick from Lefty). The quicker that loop turns over, the greater the likelihood of success. Adding a haul helps.
11.) When my fly gets stuck up in a mangrove branch, sometimes I can snatch it off by slowly retrieving line until there is a bit of tension between the rod tip and the stuck fly. Then I dip the tip a little, and snatch it back while hauling at the same time. Sometimes works..... sometimes pops the leader. One way or the other, I'm free without having to pole my skiff up into the mangroves and suffer a grande load of mosquitoes!!!
12.) I'm not a "perfect caster". Sometimes in my attempt to make a long distance presentation, I'll false cast 'til I have a bit too much line out. I sense the problem and can sometimes save that poor cast with a long haul. This can help tighten my loop and take some of the sag out of my fly leg (top leg).
13.) When casting to a fish behind a mangrove clump, I need a curve cast presentation. I can help "kick that cast" way around the clump by making a side arm curve cast with a haul and a combination of a pull-back combined with a check haul to quickly turn the leader over behind the obstruction.
14.) Once in a while, I'll have a pod of tarpon slowly swimming away from me. A straight, "Hail Mary" cast usually lines them and spooks the critters. Rather than doing that, I make a long distance right angle hook cast beyond them, let it settle, then start my retrieve. The fly travels at right angles to the fish course... sometimes resulting in a strike. (If you retrieve back toward the fish, you'll rarely get a take.) To help turn that leader and the end of the fly line to make the "hook", I use a sharp haul made at my stop.
15.) One way of making a slack line presentation, is to use a check haul. Doing that while, at the same time, pulling back on the rod just as the loop is turning over, can yield even more slack.
16.) Big flies sometimes used in the salt, are not so easy to dry. Getting the water out, makes them lighter for an easier "next cast". I find that what works best for me, is to make a few short high line speed casts into the wind with sharp hauls, then circling it overhead while retrieving line to the point that the fly doesn't hit the water again before "setting up" for the next presentation. Sometimes raises eyebrows when someone sees me doing that.
17.) I don't want to have any more line coiled on my skiff deck than I'm likely to need under given fishing conditions. I solve that problem, by making at least one "CLEAR CAST". That is a distance presentation which I'm likely to need, later. I always use a double haul. Then, I reel up the remaining line on the deck before retrieving the line on the water to make my "set-up" in preparation for the next fish sighted.
18.) When I want to splash a popper fly down near the lilly pads to wake up a black bass back in the cover, I'll sometimes use a "triple haul". Double haul for max line speed, followed by a check haul to flip over that leader as fast as possible despite the air drag of that popper. Makes a good splash.
Gordy
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