Walter & Group...
Here is Steve Rajeff's description of what he does to make that superb sharp pointed fly line loop :-
Regarding the V
shape, or pointed loop, it is created at the moment of stop of the forward
stroke. It is defined by the tip dipping down or tracking the straight line
path, in the final tip couple of feet of travel. The tip dip or straight line
path is controlled by wrist rotation (turn over) and extension of the arm,
(extending the stroke slightly),
right at the stop.
Turning the wrist over, make the tip travel forward. Extending the arm forward,
makes the tip travel forward. This is not to say, save up wrist rotation until
the end, or push the arm out at the end, but a blend of both, in a smooth turn
over, is what helps keep the tip tracking the straight line path a bit further
to create the pointed loop. Another variable, is rod stiffness to line balance.
A stiffer rod lighter line set up, will make it easier to make the pointed loop,
as it is easier to keep the tip traveling along the straight line path. A
more loaded down rod, would require more rotation and more extension to help
keep the tip tracking. In the events of Single Hand Fly Distance, also, Anglers
Fly Distance, we use really stiff rods for the weight of the line, that helps
generate maximum line speed and it is very easy to achieve the pointed
loop.
Best
regards,
Steve
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ARTICLE BY BRUCE RICHARDS AND NOEL PERKINS - Understanding your Casting Stroke (Fly Fisherman Magazine, Dec., 2003.)
This is a link to Fly Fisherman Magazine Provided by Arnell Hodges :
http://castanalysis.com/links/flyfishermandec2003.pdfhttp://castanalysis.com/links/flyfishermandec2003.pdf
--- On Thu, 8/20/09, Gordy Hill <masterstudygroup@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> From: Gordy Hill <masterstudygroup@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Balanced Flies- Heavy flies / "pointed loop" / Article sought
> To: "Arnell xxxxx" <redwoode@xxxxxxxxx>
> Date: Thursday, August 20, 2009, 12:20 PM
I also placed the magazine in an attachment in case you have trouble activating the link.
Scroll down to the second article and you will find the one by Bruce Richards & Noel Perkins entitled UNDERSTANDING YOUR CASTING STROKE.
This should be studied carefully. Consider archiving it for future reference. It occurred to me that this should be added to the reading material in the FFF Master Study Guide.
One caveat: When they discuss the different curves for the Casting Analyzer between those for the rigid rod and those for the flexible one, they are talking about a completely rigid rod. Not one we'd fish with. THIS IS IMPORTANT, BECAUSE IT SHOWS THAT THE ROD TIP OF A TRUE FLY ROD WITH SOME DEGREE OF FLEXIBILITY IS MOVING FASTEST BETWEEN THE "STOP" OF THE HAND AND RSP (AN INTERVAL OF ABOUT 0.1 SEC.)
Gordy
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MORE ON BALANCED FLIES
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From Gary Davison :
Mark Sedotti answers our questions:
Hi Gordy,
Great questions.
I add the weight to the
very large flies by using .035 wire to wrap the shank of the front hook and then
tie in a keel below, which is 15-18 half inch pieces of that .35 wire. Of
course, the hooks (5/0 front, 4/0 trailer) are heavy and a wire connects them.
The big fly is usually 10 to 14 inches long. This works for a fly 8 inches or
bigger.
Easiest to do: Is to use one Spirit River large size (they
have three sizes- large is largest) weighted eye (they are not lead) for an
8 or 9 inch bunker fly. Use two of these for a fly like this that is 10 to say
17 inches long. Of course you're natuarally going to have heavy hooks. I don't
tie in a trailer on an 8 incher.
This is a simple way to weight
balance very large flies.
2. Most of the heavy weight is added to
the front hook. Doesn't matter where you add it on that hook. With a fly that
size it always ends up by the head.
I think total weight of fly is
most importent, but really most of my weight has been near or at the head for
all of my giant flies.
3. The guide above for weighted eyes is
pretty good. For a different size fly you would have to find this yourself.
remember, I found this by accident at first. What you do is tie a fly. If it's
too heavy, add more materials any way you can , till the fly casts best. Then
put it all into the next fly. If the fly drags too much, add weight
progressivily by bending weighted wire around the hook bed. Do this until THAT
fly false casts best. As you get past the sweet spot, it will become less and
less castible. Then you take a little off, and cast it again. Then you get to
that point of weight balance.
Mark
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Good new questions from Ralph Tomaccio. My answers in
his text in bold italics G.
:
Hi Gordy and Gang,
Regarding weighted flies, a few questions:
If we are to design and tie flies so carefully as to be weight balanced to cast as they should, are these flies, then, only meant for one specific weight rod?
Most rods will handle a range of line weights. The rod must be able to handle the fly line which can carry sufficient energy to turn over the loop for any weighted fly, balanced or not. G.
Wouldn?t how the rod performs and the caster?s style dictate that that weight balanced fly is only ideal for that specific rod?
I suppose one might find the rod which would best handle that line and weighted fly in the hands of a particular caster. Might well be a different one for best performance when cast by another caster.
RE: STYLE.... We speak of STYLE as a way of achieving the essentials of casting best suited to the caster's anatomy. While maintaining those essentials, style may also be chosen to best perform with respect to fishing and casting circumstances. I think this situation would fit both. It will become very obvious if ever you have the pleasure of seeing Mark Sedotti use his style of casting to deliver his very large, heavy balanced flies !
Mark will be giving demonstration casts at our Florida Council meeting in October. G.
Regards,
Ralph Tomaccio
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