Hook casts / Curves / "Yarn" flies

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Troy,

EXCELLENT way to think about a curve cast. A tuck cast to the side. I see it so clearly in my mind, and actually FEEL it too, as I make that cast there (in my mind).

Once again you help me! Good teacher. Hope you're doing well.

Mark

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Comment: That is a good way to look at the curve cast made using a horizontal rod plane, overpowering the cast, and stopping early.

By the same token, we can turn it around and look at the tuck cast as a powered vertical curve cast with a downward presentation.

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Regarding the question of yarn flies, I agree that having an adaptation of a fly while teaching or just practicing is a good idea and allows for quick location of the leader end.

The best "yarn" fly that I have found is easily tied on a dry fly hook shank (hook cut off) with the polypropylene that comes from the inside of braided mylar tubing (a fly tying material). This material is stiff and after tying on hook shank with 6/0 thread and super glue the poly is trimmed, colored with a red, orange or yellow magic marker and then coated with silicone grease. When completed the fake fly will float and allow for roll casting without sinking, will withstand the rigors of casting on the grass and has sufficient mass to curve well on curve casts. Might seem like a lot of trouble but it is very effective in simulating a real fly. This can be tied in various sizes to suit your casting.

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Mack.... As I stated a couple of days ago, I make mine in a similar way but simpler, using package yarn. I can make it as sparse as needed by the number of fibers I pull off the one strand of three which I've unravelled. It won't float as well as the one you describe, however. I've tried spraying it with dry-fly-spray and that works for a few practice casts. Still doesn't really act like a real dry fly, though.

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Of course yarn only, doesn't feel or respond like a fly. It isn't "weight balanced". A small dry fly has the weight of the hook in it which counteracts the drag of the wind resistent materials in the fly. This neutralizes that drag and makes the fly very castible. You want the correct balance between the weight in the fly and the resistence of it's wind resistent materials to make a very castible fly, if not simply a castible one. That hook there is VERY importent. As you increase the amount of wind resistence in the fly (and usually this relates to fly size too - as you get bigger) you have to increase the amount of weight in the fly correspondingly, for excellent fly castibility. I became aware of this while working on casting and designing giant castible flies. "As above, so below" As with large (flies), it's the same with small, (except with the small you need less weight - the smaller the fly, the less weight you need)

I have to say that I sometimes use just a bit of yarn without any hook or weight, and this works OK. Just enough so I can still see the "fly". Too much yarn and you're shot, it's just too imbalanced.

When I practice with the giant flies though, they're accurately weight balanced. You'd be surprized just how heavy they actually are.

Mark
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Mark... I once saw you throw some monster flies. (Looked like the whole chicken !) What is the longest one you've cast .... and its approximate weight ???

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Hi Gordy,

I use yarn flies and don't really have any problems with them.

I like Glo Bug Yarn in Moss, it's a green chartreuse that shows up well for me. I normally cut about a 1 inch piece and split it into 3 or 4 piece's. To attach it to the tippet; I first tie an overhand knot in the end of the tippet, then form a second overhand knot that I put a piece of the split out yarn in. Pulling that up tight allowing the tippet to slip until the first overhand knot is snug against the second one that is holding the yarn. I then trim the yarn back to about a size 12 or 14 dry fly and snip the tag end of the tippet if it is to long.

I can see this little piece of yarn well past 85 feet when laying on the ground, it is easy for me to see when shooting targets even past 60 feet. I will admit that some of the folks that I cast with have preferences for other colors and I agree they should use the color that is easiest for them to see.

As for the size, when I was preparing for the CCI exam I was instructed to cut it back to the smallest size that I could readily see. It was amazing how little wind resistance it has compared to a piece that would be about a the size of a # 8 dry fly.

In conclusion I like very sparse yarn flies, with the best part being; I don't worry about hitting the rod with a cutoff hook when I'm experimenting or working on a new cast.

Regards

Pat Blackwell
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1.) The way Rick and I make up those little yarn flies with the light-wire hook cut off, the only bit of shank remaining is about 1/8" long and is buried in the head. The little hook eye is there for tying it to the leader, but I have never had a problem with it damaging a fly rod because its mass is minimal.

2.) When giving classes, I noted that before I went to these "flies", the students would tie the yarn onto the tippet in every way you could imagine. During the class, some of them would have the yarn fly off .... while tying on a new one, they are not paying attention... etc. Having an eye to which the tippet can be fastened has been a time saver.... and by passing these out, every one of my students is casting the same thing.

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For practicing I substitute a short loop of braided nylon builders chalk line with frayed ends secured by a nail knot which forms a sort of "body".

Such a "fly" can be made in less than a minute, is more durable that most yarn flies and is highly visible. Mass and "body" length can be varied according to the number of turns in the nail knot. Aerodynamic drag can be adjusted by making the frayed "tails" longer or shorter. Looping "fly" to tippet greatly lengthens the interval between break-offs compared to a piece of yarn directly knotted to the tippet.

Tony .... I'll give that a try ! I did tie up a couple of them .... used the snell knot ("Nailless Nail Knot" ) which requires no nail or tube. No vise needed, either. I'll try casting them tomorrow. Gordy