[First_Name] & Group...
From Server Sadik. (Note his attachment) :-
From Al Buhr : -
RE: Loops connections
Hi Gordy,
I am very familiar with the braided
monofilament loops. I would like to suggest other options to consider such as a
one-piece loop, bonded or welded.
A one-piece loop, utilizing the line,
allows direct transfer of stresses. The interconnecting loops, when tighten,
creates a cinch and binds the loop connection, reducing the direct pull of the
joint bond or weld. Unlike braided mono loops, a one-piece loop will not over
tighten and be difficult to loosen. A one-piece loop can be damaged if small
diameter loops are over tightened, such as light sinking tips or monofilament.
A bonded loop:
For ultimate strength (full line core
strength) a one-piece loop bonded has proven consistent. A quick, simple and
durable loop to make.
Needed is a knife, flexible superglue
(Loctite 414 is best) and fly tying thread or single-strand floss (best).
Note:
Loctite 414 is a bonder made for vinyl based materials and works exceptional
well on PVC, PU and PE
1)
Starting with the line tip, slice a flat
notch ¾” into the line. Do not cut into the core, but aside, to expose the core.
2)
Move back 3”, cut a second flat notch equal
in length and in alignment with the first notch. Length of the notch (to become
the bonded joint area) is in relation to the core strength. Lengthen the notch
(joint area) when extreme tension is anticipated.
3)
Fold the line end, mating the two flat
notches to check loop size and joint alignment. A flat, equal match is
desirable.
4)
Relax the line, allowing it to straighten
and apply the bonder to the exposed cores and notch faces. Apply a very thin
layer of bonder and only to the notch. Excessive amounts will cause a sticky
finger problem later. Allow a minute to pass, permitting the cores to soak and
adsorb the bonder. This is important, for consistent full pull strength the
cores must align and bond. The line’s strength is in the core, not the
coating.
5)
To fit and bond the loop; fold the line,
match the notches and seat. Hold firmly between the index and thumb for 30 to 60
seconds (rubbing some candle wax prior will reduce any tacking to the
fingers).
6)
Whip finish the joint area with
single-stand floss (it will lay flat for a low profile). The thread wraps are
not for strength, but add durability.
I have used this loops for
several weeks of continual use without any outer wraps.
This type of bonded joint can be used in a
line-to-line connection. Nothing will tighten the “spinkner” like a loop
connection banging through the guides as a fish makes the last chance surge. To
eliminate the loop use two matching flat notches, one on each line end.
This is a perfect bonded splice for
attaching monofilament shooting line to the head. With mono, use a pair of
pliers to crimp the end of the mono (about ½ the joint length) for an improved
bond. Follow the related steps listed above to cutting and
bonding.
Welded one-piece loops can be equally as
strong. Once becoming familiar to the process, it is easy and reliable. Open
flame (a cigarette lighter) can be used, however a hot air gun or hair
straightening iron will give best results.
With welded mono cored sinking tips, a
one-piece loop can incorporate a filler of PU. The PU will act as a bonding
filler, making the joint much easier to mold. Then by using a contrasting color
to note density, a color code system can be developed to make fishing simpler
and more successful.
When large diameter fly line requires a
loop, a two-piece loop is a simple way to make a small petite loop.
A two-piece loop when made of a high
contrast such as bright hot orange can act as a strike-indicator while also
acting as the connection to a poly-leader.
Two-piece loops can be made by bonding or
welding.
A few ideas to the many ways to make fly
line connections.
Al
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Al ... Do you think the bonded loop will be sufficiently strong for big game salt water fly fishermen who use 20 lb. test classs tippets ?
Gordy
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From Nial Logan:
Gordie,
Using the braided nylon
loop as described by Lefty on the end of a leader has another advantage when you
are using long leaders on the flats. If you haven’t got a guide or a friend with
you, in preference to putting the reel in water, you generally have to partially
dismantle the rod to get the knots clear of the rod tip. The braided connection
will cast easily through the rod guides.
To digress a bit, the
other loop connection to consider for those changing lines on a regular basis is
on the back end of the flyline and the backing. Most
here use a braided nylon loop on the fly line and a loop formed by a bimini twist in the end of the backing of GSP or Dacron.
With GSP, a single strand has been known to cut through the nylon braid after a
few hard running fish such as tuna. The alternative is to double the line
and, although this solves the cutting problem, the loops tend to pull tight and
are tedious to get apart. The solution is to use a braided loop on the end of
the GSP. The two braided loops are very strong and are easy to get apart to
enable quick fly line changes.
If you are not aware of the technique
used to form the loop on the GSP, a good description can be found on Peter
Morse’s
Regards,
Nial
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