Gordy, three friendsoleaving for a month (off and on) in Big Pine. They
were wondering about tarpon lines. I told them you were the man and I'd
ask. They are taking 10 wts and 12 wts. What do you prefer for
June-July season -- floaters, intermediates, heads? These guys are all
very experienced fishermen and fine casters. Also, I know you've
recently offered your take on tarpon leaders. would you mind a recap
onthem?
Thanks,
David Lambert
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David,
Here is a brief recap on lines and leaders for tarpon :
LINES : I like to have ready and
rigged at least three outfits. My own preference is to use # 10 wt.
and (max.) #11 wt. lines for Keys tarpon.... even for those well in
excess of 100 lbs.
Fishing true giants (150 lbs.) and above, say at Homosassa, I'd use # 12
wt. outfits. Billie Pate invited me to go to West Africa with his
group a few years ago. They reported fish of well ove 200 lbs.,
there. Huge fish in brawling deep river mouths. That would make
me consider short #15 wt. rods such as we use for blue marlin ..... but I
didn't actually make the trip, so am not qualified to give advice on that
particular fishery.
My three usual choices:
1.) # 10 full floating Tarpon Taper. I like the Scientific
Anglers Mastery line best ...... may change to the Sharkskin after playing
with it longer.) I use this one for very shallow flats fishing and
worm hatches.
2.) # 10 floating Tarpon Taper with a clear intermediate sink tip.
I use this one when I need to sink the fly a bit, yet wish to perserve
relative ease of a quick pickup & second presentation after a
refusal.
3.) # 10 Full intermediate sink line. I like the Scientific
Anglers Mastery lines and the Airflo lines as well. I use this outfit
when fishing deeper ..... say about 3' - 6' or deeper. I, also,
use this regularly when the tarpon are in weedy waters. This allows me
to make a cast, let the fly line sink just below the floating sargassum weed
..... then make my retrieve.
I use this one or the sink tip line when fishing tarpon with
poppers. NOT the floating line, which tends to make the popper jump
out of the water ....... spooks the poons.
I make a 1/2" loop at each end of the fly line for loop-to-loop
connections with leader butt section and backing.
(I use Spectra gel-spun 50 lb. backing)
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LEADERS :
Length: 9' - 10' with a clear tip line on very windy
days. (Need wind distance and the fish are not really spooky)
12' - 14' with any of these lines on clear days with not a lot of wind.
Design: 50% Butt section of 50 lb. test moderately supple
nylon monofilament, 1/2" Duncan loop at either end.
No
true, "tapered section". For long leaders, I'll add 24" or so of 40
lb. test nylon mono with a loop at its end.
To this I attach my class tippet/shock tippet assembly.
Shock tippet: 60 lb. test Fluorocarbon affixed to hook with a 4X snell
or loop knot. This is usually
a
Homer Rhodes loop. I use either an improved blood knot between
this and the class tippet, an improved Albright Special, or ( if
I were to try to stay strictly within IGFA specs) an improved Huffnagle
knot.
Class
tippet: 18" to 30" of 20 lb. nylon monofilament. I always
double it over at each end to make the connection to the shock tippet on one
end, and to make a furled double strand loop at the other end for
loop-to-loop connection.
Class
tippet for IGFA spec. rigging: Here I'll go the whole route of tying
Bimini twists at each end of the class tippet.... this gives me double lines
out of the end of each knot for connections above and below. If using
15 lb test or below, I'll make a furl of the double line out of the proximal
Bimini, then double it over again and furl the furl to make a tiny (1/4")
"spring loaded" loop and finish it with a 2x surgeons knot. To
meet these specs, you must have a minimum of 15 " of class tippet, and your
shock tippet must not exceed 12" in length, including the
knots.
The reason for the tiny spring loaded furled loop at the top of the class
tippet is to prevent the once in a while jumping of one loop over the other
with leader fracture as one loop catches on the knot of the other loop
as the fish jumps.
COMMENTS:
Many come to fish for these fish with perfect tackle
including expensive rods and reels. Unfortunately, they can't handle
the casting in the real world of standing on the deck of a skiff pitching
and rolling........and making, "lazer-loops" into a howling wind to make the
delivery. They can't make the quick 60' backcast presentations so
often needed for success. The, "quick cast" concept of a delivery with
only one or two back casts hasn't been learned or
practiced.
Gaining the casting skills is, I feel, far more important
than buying the ideal tackle !!!
Learning how to handle the fish on the strike is of great
importance. Most fishers new to tarpon fishing lose on the
strike. The hardest thing for me to teach is to avoid a, "trout" or
"salmon" strike. It almost always results in pulling the fly right out
of the fish's mouth.
Best, to wait and let the fish come tight .... rod bent way
down with lots of tension
before executing a strip strike.
Gordy
Gordy