Wind casting .... more

Walter & Group.......

From Mack Martin :

Gordy:

 

I think it is appropriate to point out that there is a boundary layer present with fluids flowing over a surface....i.e. water in a stream or air on a large body of water. The issue of utilizing the boundary layer to cast more effectively in wind does have merit. Casting very low near the water surface will substantially reduce the velocity of the wind. The basis for this provides that the wind is flowing over a relatively long distance and has no turbulent flow. Therefore, when the wind has a true laminar flow the velocity can be calculated and as an example the wind velocity approximately 12 inches above the surface of the water is about 30% to 40% of the maximum velocity at the higher level.  At 6 inches above the water surface the velocity is 15% to 30%  of the maximum velocity for winds between 10 and 20 MPH. Thus the effect of casting low in the boundary layer does provide air velocity that is lower and that will make a big difference on windy days.

 

Mack Martin

AFFS

 

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Mack....    Right you are.  Problem is that it isn't easy for most casters to cast between 6' and 12" above the water surface.  Requires pin point timing along with high loop speed ! 

As you know, I'm sure, wind travelling over a very long distance with no obstructions is known as high, "fetch".

I imagine, that with waves the situation would be altered by wind turbulance.

Gordy

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From Dave Hutchinson :-

Gordy

 

I have taken your "wind casting " several times..It has always been excellent and well done. However, I do not recall you ever mentioning the concept of "tempo". Recently at the Southeastern FFF Conclave , I attended a class on distance casting presented by Steve Rajeff. He emphasized an increased in the casting cycle (tempo) when dealing with the wind He demonstrated this increase and had each student practice this. This increase that he recommended was extremely fast. I would be interested in your comments.

 

Dave Hutchinson

FFF CI

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Dave,

 

Steve is absolutely right.

 

You will remember, I'm sure, that I taught that one needs high line speed as well as a tight loop when casting into the wind.

 

When casting with the same length of fly line, you must increase tempo (cadence) as you get that line speed.

 

Why ? ...... It is a matter of correct timing. As we apply increased power and high loop speed,  it takes less time for each loop to unfurl. 

 

One of the basic principles of good timing is that the tempo or cadence must be matched to the time for each loop to unroll.

 

We are really talking about the same thing.

 

Glad you brought that up !!!!  

 

Gordy

 

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Some, "wind fishing" nuggets I've collected over the years .....

 

# "Choosing your wind" to make the cast.  One example of this is when fly casting in the surf on a day when strong winds arre particularly gusty.  When that situation prevails, I'll try to time my cast so it is made in between gusts.   Timing that cast with this in mind as well as the wave situation can be tricky, indeed .... because you are dealing with two variables !      (Casting's, "quadratic equation" !).

 

#  The effect of wind on lakes is well described in Gary Borger's, PRESENTATION, pp. 76 - 79.  I have also noted these effects on salt water lagoons, bays & bights including the scum lines at 45 degrees to the wind which Gary describes as being caused by Langmuir spirals.  (He says that has something to do with the Earth's axis ..... the, Corioles effect.)

 

#  One observation which I cannot explain is the substantial temporary decrease in the velocity of the wind often found during a tide change on salt water flats.   (Perhaps one of you has found an explanation for this .... if so, I'd like to learn.)

 

#  It is easier to, "punch a fly" out into a strong wind with a #9 outfit than a #6 one, despite the fact that the fly line has greater diameter and, therefore, greater wind resistance.  The larger/bulkier the fly, the more this is true.

 

#  Fishing with Lefty, I learned that while going to a heavier outfit helps in wind, simply overlining your rod is NOT the answer.  When you go to this heavier outfit to  combat wind, best move is to use a fly line one designation below that of the rod !  (Carry another 5' of line, and the rod load is the same as with the heavier line.)

 

#  Because of the lower diameter per weight of a sinking fly line, it is easier to cut through the wind.  (Think mass profile).

 

#  Cold wind offers more resistance to your cast than hot wind in the tropics.  (The air is denser )

 

#  Despite the hot wind being less dense, I've observed many very good casters achieving less distance in our warm tropical air than they can achieve in cooler areas.  I've wondered if this might be because of the very great humidity in warm air (?????)

 

# In line with this, Lefty has noted that a caster with a given fly rod can handle a heavier designation line in the wind when that line is a sinker than when it is a floater.  PRESENTING THE FLY, Lefty Kreh, p. 58. He doesn't know why.  (I wonder if that might be because of less tip top and guide friction with the sinking line ????)

 

# One of many ways to achieve slack when wanted is to make your forward cast with a high trajectory into the wind.

 

#  When looking for fish in stillwater (fresh or salt) on a windy day, you will often find more of them on the windward side of the body of water.  Wind actually blows plankton and floating vegetation away from the lee shore .... fish sometimes follow.

 

#  Wind makes noise and physical disturbance of the water.  This often makes spooky fish less nervous ..... so you may not need a long cast as you can get closer to them.

 

#  It is often easier to sight fish when there is a moderate wind than when flat calm  (less glare).

 

#  When, "blind fishing" from a drifting skiff, it is usually more productive to make your casts directly into the wind.  (Allows slower retrieve & the fly stays out there longer / fewer casts needed.)

 

#  Sometimes I blind cast for tarpon in the wind when there are lots of floating weeds.  Fewer weed hookups result when I cast down wind or up wind than when I fish cross wind.

 

#  On windy days, I often shorten my leader.  This makes my casting more accurate, I get better distance, and I don't need a really long leader because the fish are less spooky.

 

#  On the salty flats, I'll often switch to smaller flies when it's very windy..... easier to make accurate casts and less wind resistance.

 

#  When fly fishing from a flats skiff, it is even more important on windy days to have no more line out of your reel than you are likely to need.  Any more than that is a lot more likely to tangle either as you cast, or when a hooked fish booms out to the horizon.

 

#  Be careful to note and correct for side winds for accurate fly placement.

 

#  A strong wind from behind can straighten out your mend making in ineffective.

 

#  A strong downstream wind can negate your upstream mend.

 

#  When casting with the wind, you can shoot a well formed mend out to Kingdom Come.

 

#  When roll casting, a strong wind from behind can blow your D-loop in front of you.  Bad scene.  To avoid that, consider a low horizontal roll cast.

 

#  Getting your fly back to your hand when the wind is blowing hard at you can be a problem.  One way to solve this problem is to raise your rod tip, turn around and then bring the rod tip back over your shoulder and down gradually.  The fly will hover in the wind in front of you making it easy to grasp.

 

# Just last year, I learned that it is much more efficient for me to Spey cast with my non-dominent hand up on the cork when it is necessary to keep my D-loop on my lee side as I cast over my, "opposite" shoulder.

 

 

 

Gordy

 

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