[SPAM] Distance roll cast / test

Jim...

Sounds like you've solved the problem for casting on water. You are correct, though, that for the test you may have to do it on grass.

Tom and I have worked out a method which works very well for candidates.

Basically, it's the back cast setup which is important. You need lots of line behind you to load properly to make the distance.

I like to have the candidate flip a very narrow loop STRAIGHT behind the rod tip, then take a step to the rod hand side, with the rod pointed way back in the direction of that needle sharp loop on the ground with NO SLACK. I have him crouch and make a low tight-loop forward stroke toward the target.

The trick in practicing the formation of that tight loop behind is to do it with the rod tip only about a foot above the grass so the wind doesn't open up that loop. Takes lots of practice. The ultimate objective is to have at least 40' of line directly behind the casting elbow as a really straight tight loop before starting the forward stroke. The second trick is to have the rod held way back with the tip pointed exactly at the apex of that ground loop with no slack whatever before starting the forward cast.

Of course, the reason that this is more difficult to do on grass is that your rod load comes much more from behind since you don't have an effective water surface tension, "anchor" in front of you.

We did a lot of experimenting with different lengths of line out in front for different grasses to gain more load potential from in front. It never worked as well as that long straight tight loop directly behind the caster. The method I described, above, works a lot better for us than the use of the, "roll cast tool" or having someone stand on your fly/leader.

That XXD long belly line works fine for this. My personal preference is to use a, "fast" or "medium fast" action rod.

Jim... let me know if it's OK with you for sharing this string of messages with the Group.

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Jim...

Sounds like you've solved the problem for casting on water. You are correct, though, that for the test you may have to do it on grass.

Tom and I have worked out a method which works very well for candidates.

Basically, it's the back cast setup which is important. You need lots of line behind you to load properly to make the distance.

Of course, the reason that this is more difficult to do on grass is that your rod load comes much more from behind since you don't have an effective water surface tension, "anchor" in front of you.

That XXD long belly line works fine for this. My personal preference is to use a, "fast" or "medium fast" action rod.

Jim... let me know if it's OK with you for sharing this string of messages with the Group.

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Gordy-

Thanks for the reply. Yes, please share this with the group. I know there are other candidates that are questioning this.

Last year Tom showed a group of CCI hopefuls the distance roll cast. You can make a nice tight linear loop in the grass behind you, by stopping the rod into the backcast in a very low plane. This works great for some very long roll casts. However, I have found no practical application for fishing.

I do recall having problems roll casting for my CCI with Art Mazzier holding the fly, to simulate water tension. I think all of these techniques should be practiced, as you should be prepared for anything.

As for rod stiffness, I prefer the stiff rod for distance, but I like a little bit of bend and recoil for the roll cast. It seems easier to make the softer rod work for you with that hammer stroke.

When I retest, I will be using the technique you have outlined in your reply, unless we have a casting pond! I hope this technique will be acceptable to all of the BOG's and Master's who are administering the test.

Thanks,

Jim Laing

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Jim...

I agree that a softer rod is better for short well controlled roll casts, whereas the faster rod works better for the distance roll cast. In taking the exam, however, you must decide on a single rod and line with which to perform ALL the tasks. For many, including me, a medium fast rod worked fine.

The long belly line works well because (as Tom points out), "you always have heavier line turning over the lighter line in front."

Joan Wulff notes that the triangle taper is the easiest line to roll cast, for the same reason...but for medium and short distance casts. (Here, achievable distance will partly depend on the length of the, "triangle" forward taper for the particular TT line used.)

Flipping a long loop behind you is rarely needed when fishing, as I see it. I have used it when fishing a pine woods bank where we had a blanket of pine needles on the ground and dense pine boughs overhead preventing a normal overhead back cast. Worked fine for that. It is, however, a "casting contrivance" for lawn practice and casting just as the use of the, "roll cast tool", a person standing on the caster's leader, or the use of a book or clip board. As such, these can also be used as teaching devices.

To get that tight long loop behind, Tom often used a back cast overhead maneuver controlled well so that the fly lay about 2 rod lengths in front of the caster. That works perfectly unless you have a wind from either side in which instance the loop often opens up before it hits the ground. That open or wide ground loop is slack which must be taken up before the forward stroke becomes effective in loading the rod.

Another way of getting great distance on the roll cast is to avoid stopping between back cast and forward cast. Some call that a, "switch cast".... some others call it a, "forward Spey". Whatever you call it, many examiners won't accept this method on your exam. Good to know it, anyway, because it is a very useful fishing cast.

Gordy