Soft v Fast rods/translation/rotation

There’s only one way to decide if a soft action rod is useful to you. I’m gonna go out on a limb and say that probably more than half of today’s flyfishermen started flyfishing after “The Movie”. There really haven’t been too many genuine “soft” rods on the market since then. Truth is, for some people, a soft rod is the perfect choice for certain applications. And I mean this from a performance standpoint, not just aesthetically. It’s the fundamental reason that I fish bamboo. Here’s my rationale:

If I’m fishing close all day (and I usually have a good idea beforehand if I think that will be the case), I could choose to fish a stick (TCR-type). Sure I could. Some guys do. But with 15 to 25 feet of the “correct weight” flyline off the tip, we all know it won’t load appreciably unless we absolutely hammer the stroke. Does the rod need to load? What happens if it doesn’t (i.e.- broomstick casting)? I could also choose to cast a softer rod, which will basically bend just under its own inertia. Some rods will load to the grip without any line on them – without even having to hammer the stroke. We caneheads call this “self-loading”, and while it’s very useful on short distance casts, it can limit long distance casting for many casters.

Gordy, recall your comment about two things a rod blank can do. Exist and return to straight when a load is removed (methinks there’s a third thing – it can resist bending, all by itself). That “return to straight” concept is central to why I often will choose a less stiff rod for close in. In terms of accuracy, the potential error in 3-D trajectory is highly influenced by two things – the path that the rod tip traversed during the final stroke, and the alignment of the rod’s unloading WITH that SLP. The balance between how important each of those contribute is based largely on how stiff the rod is. For instance, a broomstick doesn’t unload. So the trajectory of the loop will be 100% dependent on how perfect the SLP was that the caster caused. On a short cast with an ultra-stiff rod, that will not be much linear distance. If it was off a couple degrees on that short stroke, you’ll miss your target. If the stroke was longer… it’d be easier to align with the target.

Also, the deeper the rod loads, the longer the distance it will travel as it unloads. If you made a reasonable SLP (even if not perfect) then the unload will be very straight. When you combine the more easily aimed “long stroke” with the planar unloading of the rod, your accuracy in the X-Y (horizontal) plane will be VERY good. Then you just have to adjust for distance. Accuracy at close to medium range is much easier to achieve with a softer rod, IMO. The best way I can explain this is, think about accuracy when you’re shooting a long-barrel sniper rifle, vs. a 2” snubnose .38 SP.

We’re back to the old argument, USE THE RIGHT TOOL FOR THE JOB. Forget hyperbole and keeping up with the Joneses. I try to instill this in my students understanding whenever I can. Think freely and make up your own mind.

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Troy... Well stated ! Gordy

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From Michael Jones....

Gordy:

I wrote:

"I only suggest that we consider what is confining us to the transitional

requirements to cast 100' "

I pick my terms carefully here, and suggest that 'transitional

requirements' describes the proper balance struck between translation

& rotation in any cast.

Thank you,

Michael Jones

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Michael...

I don't think the relative amounts of translation and rotation have been quantified. Not sure they really can be, because this will differ with different casters, different tackle, varied conditions and different casting styles.

As I see it, an efficient distance caster starts with mostly translation using just a bit of rotation with it, then, as the stroke proceeds, more and more rotation is added. Near the end of the cast, it's almost all rotation.

Gordy

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From Robert Shigley:

Hi Again Gordy;

Here's a thought on Joan's info regarding "drifting" I like perhaps other caster have a back and shoulder problem which precludes me from drifting. I have to twist my body but disallow my arm from extending to a drift, and sort of "ride" the line going back from the RSP of arm on the back cast. Does this change anything? I am still able to do my hauling OK and in a straight line path, but I feel it limits me from going beyond 80 or 85 feet. Your thoughts please!

robert

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Robert...

This does limit you. Alternatives to the back drift include : 1. The Lefty "STAB" (Still requires you to twist, however)

2.) The, "Lay Back" used by Gary and Jason Borger (More vertical rod plane, no twist) 3.) Tom White's method of lifting the casting hand up and back, thrusting the rod tip back over his casting shoulder toward the unrolling back cast loop. Slightly off vertical rod plane.

Each of these methods can result in increasing the available stroke length and rod arc yielding greater tip travel for the forward cast.

(Tom was here and demonstrated his technique, 2 days ago.)

Gordy

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An addition to my advice to Molly Semenick on her trip to Baja:

We learned a neat trick fishing Rooster fish (pez y gallo) when fishing for them in Ecuador and Panama. Worked equally well in Baja waters:

Have a second caster armed with a powerful 20# spinning outfit and LARGE poppers .... like the huge, "SCUDDER" plugs. Remove the hooks from the big popper. When the school of roosters ( or dolphin, for that matter ) are spotted out of range of your fly cast, the spin caster winds up and belts the scudder out to kingdom come. He uses a fast, popping retrieve. The fish follow his popper. When in range, you cast your fly as close to the moving popper as you can and start a rapid retrieve.

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