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  • Re: OUTBOARD ENGINE PROTECTION



    Rick...

    With a virtual lifetime of combating salt water corrosion, I DO have some suggestions to make to help take good care of a flats fishing skiff. These materials also work to help preserve fly reels used hard in the salt.

    WD-40 is not good enough.  OK to help loosen bolts, etc....but doesn't give lasting enough protection.

    We have found best results with a material called, CORROSION X. Also, a competing product called, CORROSION BLOCK.

    Both give long term protection against corrosion as well as electrolysis.  I buy the stuff in gallon jugs.....and use a hardware store spray bottle.  The stuff is quite expensive, but worth it.  It's much less expensive when you buy it in bulk, while purchasing it in pressurized spray cans is way more costly.

    I take the cowling off the engine and spray the entire power head and connections once a year.

    Every time I wash my boat down after removing it from salt water, (About once a week for me) I spray my hydraulic steering mechanism and the entire carriage including the trim/tilt mechanism with it.  My engine is now over 9 years old.  Not one speck of rust.....looks and functions almost like new.  Thousands of hours on that engine.....and it's never been in a repair shop !

    I have a brass, HOSE QUICK DISCONNECT for my remote cooling system access on the side of the outboard engine.  I always flush the motor with fresh water every time I return from a day fishing.  When leaving the boat out of the water on the trailer, I flush with fresh water....then with a device which meters out stuff called, SALT AWAY. The company which makes the material also sells the inexpensive device which attlaches to your garden hose to rinse with this soapy material .  The stuff coats the inner water chambers of the cooling system in your engine and outdrive and protects from inner corrosion when you are not using the skiff.

    Sources of supply and info:

    # Both CORROSION BLOCK and SALT AWAY can by purchased at WEST MARINE stores in the U.S.A.

    # I can get CORROSION X at some stores selling marine dock supplies.

    # CORROSION BLOCK:

    Manufacturer: Lear Chemical Research Corp. (416) 564-0018

    Distributer:  Corrosion Block, Inc. (800) 229-7361

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    # CORROSION X :

    Corrosion Technologies Corp., Dallas, Tex. (800) 638-7361

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    L P S # 3.....Good....but leaves a sticky mess.  I no longer use it for that reason.

    ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    # SALT-AWAY:

    Salt-away/Innovative Products   P.O. Box 8797, Newport Beach, California.   (888)-SALT AWAY)

    _________________________________________________________

    A product which is TOPS for loosening corroded bolts, etc. :-

    PB BLASTER. This is available at most automotive stores, including the NAPA chain of stores.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Another which is great for loosening and lubricating stuck metal parts:-

    MARVEL MYSTERY OIL. (Sounds like a nonsense product....but it really works well.  You soak the stuck parts for a couple of days at least before trying to take them apart.)

    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Rick.....be certain to keep your lower unit and carriage Zinks clean.  If worn, replace them. This goes a long way in preventing electrolysis.

    More than you wanted to know.....but I thought I'd share this with our Group members some of which do fish a lot in the salt.

                                                                      Gordy




     


    From: "Rick Whorwood" <whorwood@xxxxxxxxx>
    To: "Gordon Hill" <hillshead@xxxxxxx>
    Subject: Re: BONEFISHER
    Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 13:46:32 -0500

    Thanks Gordy
    I just picked up the boat. They R/R lower unit, replaced water pump impeller and gasket. Checked shift / ok, R/R spark plugs, Checked carbs top low speed, Checked jet, it was seized R/R new jet, Checked timing, Start and run on flush, runs ok at idle. He suggested that I go over the boat and spray every nut and bolt with a good lube (Like W/D 40) any suggestions on this? He said everything checked out, he's not a fan of motors that have been in salt-water.
    Rick Whorwood's
    Fly Casting School
    www.flycastingschool.com
    (905)-662-8999
    ----- Original Message -----
    From: Gordon Hill
    To: whorwood@xxxxxxxxx
    Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2006 7:55 AM
    Subject: Re: BONEFISHER

    Rick...

    2 reasons:  1.) leverage/angle of thrust and 2.) poling in different depths.

                                                                           Gordy




     


    From: "Rick Whorwood" <whorwood@xxxxxxxxx>
    To: "Gordon Hill" <hillshead@xxxxxxx>
    Subject: Re: BONEFISHER
    Date: Thu, 20 Apr 2006 08:35:32 -0500

    Hi Gordy
     
    Why the longer one ? is it to do with leverage?
     
    Thank you for the offer, I have three weeks booked this spring, May 27 to June 17, unfortunately that is right at the time you have your poon fest, and it's not my intensions to burden you with this at that time, I know how important the poon fest is to you. I have also booked some time in the fall, late Oct. early Nov. this might be better for both of us. Thanks again
    Rick Whorwood's
    Fly Casting School
    www.flycastingschool.com
    (905)-662-8999
    ----- Original Message -----
    Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2006 7:06 AM
    Subject: Re: BONEFISHER

    Rick...

    Definitely the 21' pole.

    I'd love to have you come down for those lessons.

    A new poler is like a guy who first grabs a fly rod and doesn't know how to cast.  Takes some learning.

    I remember teaching Floyd to do it.  At first, he did what most new polers do in the current and wind.......went around in circles and wore himself out using WAY more energy than needed.

                                                                  Gordy




     


    From: "Rick Whorwood" <whorwood@xxxxxxxxx>
    To: "Gordon Hill" <hillshead@xxxxxxx>
    Subject: Re: BONEFISHER
    Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2006 22:19:09 -0500

    Hi Gordy
    Thank you ever so much for all the information, I'll print it out and follow all your advice. I contacted Steve about the push poles, I have a black graf/comp 19ft push pole, the kind that will turn your hands black. What length would you suggest ? Loomis has 2 18-21ft.
    I've never used a push pole, in fact I've never been on a poling plat form, I need some lessons
    Rick Whorwood's
    Fly Casting School
    www.flycastingschool.com
    (905)-662-8999
    ----- Original Message -----
    Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 9:27 PM
    Subject: BONEFISHER

    Rick...

    For your new boat.

    If it didn't come with push-pole, you might consider one that Steve Rajeff and I designed, together.....now made by Loomis.  It's the WHITE graphite/class composite 3 piece pole.  Comes in 3 sections.

    If you do get it, let me know.  I have my own way of putting these together and will give you the directions.

                                                                           Gordy