Bob...
Good information.
The water haul can be a very effective method of guick-loading the rod with a minimum of line out of the rod tip. It is effective in fishing mainly because the water haul quickly lifts line/leader/fly out of the water a significant distance from the feeding lane where you DON'T want to have any unnatural disturbance.
It's a very poor techniqhe to use if your fly is already near the fish for obvious reasons.....or on, "severe clear" days when the fish are spooky even at a distance.
Gordy
From: "Bob Rumpf - The Flye & The Pen" <caddis@xxxxxxx>
To: "Gordon Hill" <hillshead@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Shooting Heads
Date: Wed, 10 May 2006 06:11:19 -0400
Hi Gordy & group,Please forgive my lack of participation lately, although as always, I am copying everything we discuss for later study, this is our busiest season here in the Catskills and I'm literally running myself ragged between casting and fishing lessons, guiding and helping out in the shop.As regards casting with shooting heads: While fishing spawning browns on the Yellowstone back in the 70's with Bob Jacklin, Bob suggested that on the front cast, while carrying just the head and a minimum of overhang, we allow the first front cast to just touch the water, then make the back cast, with a haul, utilizing the surface friction to assist in super-loading the back cast. Line can easily be shot on the back cast with the extra load and yields a lengthy forward cast when properly executed with a good haul. The intention is to keep the line in the water, eliminate unnecessary false-casts, and cover as much water as possible. For those not familiar with this method, it is referred to as water hauling (Jacklin's terminology). It naturally disturbs the water but not to a degree that affects fishing heavy streamers deep for spawning browns.Bob Rumpf----- Original Message -----Sent: Tuesday, May 09, 2006 9:19 PMSubject: RE: Shooting HeadsJerry....
One trick when casting shooting heads which works for me, is to false cast with no more overhang than you can handle well. Then on your last back cast, shoot line to gain a lot more overhang as you back drift. Then make your presentation cast.
Perhaps some of the others in the Group will offer tricks for rigging shooting heads and casting them.
Gordy
From: jerry puckett <jerry_puckett2001@xxxxxxxxx>
To: Gordon Hill <hillshead@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Shooting Heads
Date: Tue, 9 May 2006 17:33:02 -0700 (PDT)
Thanks Gordy, I will get two set-ups as you describe and start learning more about casting and shooting heads. Jerry
Gordon Hill <hillshead@xxxxxxx> wrote:Jerry....I don't use shooting heads for much of my teaching....only when teaching specifically the use of these heads. In that event, I use a 30' head of grain wt. to match the grain wt. capability of the rod, and a shooting/running line behind it. This can be a low diameter shooting fly line.For fishing, I'll use a 40' - 45' head matched to the rod (grain wt.). The longer head gives me more distance. If I'm using a sinking head and want to get way down, I'll use a shooting/running line of Cortland Cobra 20# flat mono. The longer head takes longer for the loop to unroll....so I can get greater distance with it.Several years ago, I used this arrangement to land a world record Pacific Big Eye Tuna in Costa Rica on 12 lb.tippet. (That record stood for a few years.....and then was broken).Gordy
From: jerry puckett <jerry_puckett2001@xxxxxxxxx>
To: Gordon Hill <hillshead@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Shooting Heads
Date: Mon, 8 May 2006 22:43:21 -0700 (PDT)
Gordy, What set-up, running line and shooting head do you recommend for teaching?