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[SPAM] Tackle for testing & practice
- Subject: [SPAM] Tackle for testing & practice
- Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2006 10:13:27 -0400
Walter & Group...
I've been asked this question with regard to the MCI exam, so I'll answer
it that way. Equipment for the CCI exam need be no different. Less
critical, however, since the tasks are not as demanding :-
Hi again Gordy;
I would be interested to know what kind of rods and lines that candidates
for the basic certification test show up with. The ones who pass the testing,
what rods and lines do they use? What do you commonly see?
The reason I ask is that I am not happy with the Mastery Expert Distance
Line at all. I do like their GPX line which I is the finest line I have ever
cast. The Wulff triangular line is also an excellent line on one particular rod,
a Fly Logic 6/7 wt. I know the problem is not the equipment but me and my
ability to mechanically perform particular casts with certain lines and rods. My
style in the water dictates a light weight rod but when practicing in the
street a heavier rod is better for me. But, narrowing things down, the
Expert Distance line is not working for me, I am working much too hard to get
the casts I want.
I do have an Echo distance competition rod for practice, but I do not think
this would be the rod to do my testing with.
Robert
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Gordon
Hill <masterstudy@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Robert....
You've heard this before, so I won't dwell on it except to emphasize that
it is the candidate's casting ability and deep understanding of the principles
involved in the recognition of casting faults and their correction which
determines the likelinood of success on the practical part of the MCI
exam.....not the tackle.
We've had candidates pass who bring mis-matched 5 wt. outfits, etc.
For me and many of the folks I've helped get ready for the MCI exam, what
works well for practice as well as the test is this combo :
Rods : 7 wt. 9' Loomis GLX, Sage 7wt. XP, ........
Temple Fork Outfitters and Cabela's rods have worked well, too.
These are fast to medium fast rods capable of doing well anything on the exam
and more.
Lines : My preference is the Scientific Anglers, Mastery
WF7F XXD. In my own opinion, the RIO "Longcast" WF7F is close in
performance. I much prefer the color: BLAZE ORANGE. This is because
the caster can see it and so can the examiners. (There have been times
when testing that I have not been able to see the candidate's line well enough
because of lack of a contrasting color....so for that reason alone, I have had
to ask that the task be repeated.)
Robert....if your GPX line works best for you, by all means use it.
Leader: I like a fast tapered 8' leader. Your own hand
tied leader will probably work better for the tasks than one you can buy,
because some of the tasks demand that the leader turn over well. (The
opposite of what you often want when trout fishing !) My personal
preference is to use soft nylon mono with the same brand of material for each
segment starting with 30 lb. test for a 4' butt section and ending with 8 lb.
test for the tippet section. (You can tell that I'm a salt water guy
!) These are NOT leaders I'd use for fishing, but they are strictly
within the rules and give the candidate a bit of an advantage. They ARE
good for practice, demonstrations, and teaching .
Fly : As with practice and teaching, it should have no
hook. A piece of brightly colored yarn is all you need.
What works best for me, however, is a 1 1/2" long piece of yarn tied just
as you would tie a fly onto a thin wire # 14 hook with the hook part clipped off
just behind the tie next to the eye. My own preference is to use the,
"Package Yarn" which I buy at Hallmark stores in the color WHITE. Some dye
it yellow. I happen to be able to see white better over the targets and on
a grass lawn....and you can see it fine on the water as well.
This comes in a three-strand cord. I use 1 1/2" of a single
strand.
The fact that it is longitudinal with respect to the tippet and not,
"crosswise" makes it handle better in the wind. (Lefty's statement,
"A yarn fly doesn't cast like a real fly" was born of that problem.)
Rick Whorwood (MCI-Ontario) taught me that trick.
Reel : The LEAST important. Some
considerations, however:
1. It should be light enough so as not to tire you. (Especially with
the hours of practice beforehand) Heavy reels yield enough inertia to make
casting perfection a bit more difficult as well.
2. Best to use one which has a large arbor for the reason that it is less
likely to leave curls in your line.
My specific preferences: The #3 Waterworks PURIST model. (I
bought the last one they made. If you are set on getting one, try e-bay,
etc.) The diameter is OK on the #2 PURIST which is available.
The Lamson Litespeed #3 is fine, too. (Same manufacturer)
A good one for the purpose is inexpensive. It's the 6-7 model of the
ECHO reel. (You can find it in the Cabela's Fly Fishing catalog.....I
think it sells for about $ 70.00) It's large, but LIGHT...because it's
made from graphite composite material.
Important to me, because of the salt water, is that the reel be corrosion
resistant to the max. All of these reels are.
I STRONGLY recommend that you bring two outfits with you for the
test. We've actually had instances where a mishap results in a broken rod,
a bound up real, or a nasty leader tangle, not necessarily the fault of the
candidate.
Gordy