Group....
This is the answer key to the salt water questions.
Try to answer as many as you can without referring to this answer sheet.......after you have done this, go ahead and correct your own "test".
For most fresh water fishermen, I'd expect a score of about 20 % (10 correct answers). For most salt water anglers who don't do big game fishing or tropic flats fishing, I'd expect a score of 50% (22 - 25 correct answers.)
For those with extensive experience in the salt, both in Northern and tropical waters, and with big game including billfish experience, I'd hope for a score of close to 90%. I'd be amazed at any 100% score, since a couple of these represent my own personal tricks.
Having said that, perhaps some of you have other even better ways of solving these problems than I had. If so, I'll stand to learn.........so, HAVE AT IT !!!
Gordy
From: "Gordon Hill" <hillshead@xxxxxxx>
To: goldnwst@xxxxxxxxx, lizz58@xxxxxxx
Subject: Answer key
Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2005 08:38:28 -0400
Hi, again.....
This is the answer key to the salt water questions:-
1.) A LITTLE TUNNY, also known as, "False albacore". In S. Florida it's erroneously called a, "Bonita".
2.) A juvenile bunker. A member of the herring family.
3.) 60 % butt section, 20% tapered section & 20% tippet with no "shock tippet". Total length 10' to 14'.
4.) A large bulbous butt end to a tarpon fly rod.
5.) Anchovy Looking Fly.
6.) A well known expert tier of big game salt water flies. She designed the ALF.
7.) Author of the book, INNOVATIVE SALT WATER FLIES.
8.) Large schlappen feather fly with a sliding popper head.
9.) A long back cast presentation cast.
10.) One way of contending with the omnipresent wind from the casting arm side of right handed casters at the Barnegat Bay (New Jersey) shoreline.
11.) Mark Sedotti's famous incredible distance back cast using a weighted 27" long fly.
12.) Used a modified Belgian cast with a low climbing back cast followed by a more vertical presentation cast.
13.) Stripping basket.
14.) Braided monofilament, or fairly stiff monofilament.
15.) The line designed for fresh water use.
16.) The line designed for the tropics is more stiff and likely has a UV sunscreen compound in the coating.
17.) To connect the two strands of the Bimini twist at the end of the class tippet to the heavy shock tippet of a big game salt water leader.
18.) An almost 100% knot which is an alternative to the Bimini Twist, though easier to tie. Developed by Spyder Andreson.
19.) In rigging a tarpon fly for straight tracking.
20.) Use a long shanked hook. Also, have plenty of flies. Wire tippet is an option but will yield fewer stiper strikes.
21.) Cast into the blitz, then let the fly sink to the bottom. Only then begin a slow erratic retrieve. (The stripers will be feeding below the blue fish, most of the time.)
22.) Use a long shank hook fly with mono leader, and be prepared to lose many flies.
23.) Direct drive. Allows the use of a lot more pressure on the fish when needed. (Caveat.....for new tarpon anglers, it might be better to use the anti-reverse reel.)
24.) 2 lb. "strike drag", going up to about 4 lbs of drag near the end of the fight.
25.) None. Attach the class tippet directly to the fly.
26.) b.)
27.) A long cast made in desparation as the fish is moving away from you. (rarely works.)
28.) Gel-spun product, such as Spectra. (Abrasion resistant so the line won't abraid as the fish runs under the weed rafts.)
29.) Simply raise your rod tip. No need to strike. (If you strike as he explodes, you'll likely pop your tippet.)
30.) Using a file to sharpen a hook point so it appears triangular when observed on end.
31.) No. Best to overline that rod by one size.
32.) Twitch the fly repeatedly just a bit. Sometimes the permit will grab it anyway, and literally pull it out of the grass.
33.) First observe the other skiff and make certain of his general direction of movement. Only then, come in a maximum distance behind him, quietly poling up onto the flat. (NEVER cut him off by going in front of him !)
34.) Wait and watch. If you can't see which end of the line to approach, pole behind and ask. Helps to see which way the guides are looking. Never get between 2 skiffs, unless you are waved in. Coming in by motor, or to the wrong end of the "line" will evoke some nasty comments.....if you survive to hear them !
35.) Twist the hook on the crab fly sideways (so it won't hook the ray).....then present it right in the path of the ray, and tease it out from beneath its wing. THAT is where the cobia is looking for its food !)
36.) Make your presentation cast using a triple haul, ("check haul"). This straightens the leader. You let it sink just below the weeds, then begin your retrieve.
37.) Present to the flat....not the fish. Place the fly in the likely path of the next group of fish. Intermediate line. Rod tip on the sand as the fish approach.....then start your retrieve from this "ambush" position as the fish get close.
38.) Short ( 3') leader and a class VI full sink density compensated line.
39.) In the Carolinas, the term, "puppy drum" refers to a small redfish, or red drum.
40.) The red drum (redfish).
41.) The leader was cut by the sharp edge of the gill operculum.
42.) Immediately give slack. Wait him out. Sometimes he'll come out.....Max. pressure when he does !
43.) Muttons.
44.) Use a popper plug on a spinning rod to draw the roosters closer to you. Gets them excited so a strike on your fly is more likely. (Otherwise, they'll often follow and not take.)
45.) Use a popper head which slides on the bite tippet.
46.) Present the fly to the TAIL of the fish. He'll often whirl around and take it sideways in the edge of his mouth.
47.) Use a back cast presentation.
48.) Fast action rod.
49.) The blank wasn't designed to handle stress at that point.
50.) High back cast, forward cast directly to your target, needle sharp loop, high loop speed. No stop until you, "run out of arm" with a stab at the target. (Well described as the, "Lefty Kreh wind cast" or the, "thrust cast" in Gary Borger's book, PRESENTATION, and Jason Borger's book, THE NATURE OF FLY CASTING. )
Gordy