Gordy,
I like to organize these devices into categories.
Targets - is my general category for items that sit on the
surface and do not hold line.
Rod substitutes - my general category for items that are
moved in the hand lie a rod.
Limiters - externally applied devices to inhibit excessive
motion, even if the goal is to increase adjacent joint motion.
Anchors - Items designed to prevent line movement beyond
the rod tip.
Others- Uncategorized stuff that seems not to fit into a
category above.
Safety Equipment - Protection from the
activity and the environment
From our recent group submissions -
Targets - pie tins, flying discs, bright yellow
softball, soccer cones, marking flag, grass killer spot, hoola-hoops, sprinkler
pipe hoops, can or bottle, rocks, plants, paint spots, etc.
Rod Substitutes - Fly-O, Mel-O, Micro Practice Rod,
Weighted rod (taped re-bar), long fork, marker with loose cap, etc.
Limiters - straps, foam balls, sponges, walls, blocking
tees, pizza box discs, hall way, etc.
Anchors - Tony Vitale's slotted post, book, clip board,
weight, etc.
Others - fly line cast with no rod, yarn fly, marshmallow,
etc.
Safety Equipment - Protective lenses, hat brims, bandannas
and Buff cloths, sunblock, insect repellent, "Danger Back cast Area" signs, band
aids, gloves, Buzz-off clothing, etc.
---------------- I have introduced a couple of new items here:
Bright Yellow Softballs are fine targets. They are smallish in
diameter compared to most and have a vibrant color. They are not likely to be
blown away. They are cheap. They stick up in grass that really needed to be
mowed a week ago.
Blocking Tees - Plastic pipe (1/2 inch) assembled into a "T" shape
and covered with soft foam pipe insulation. I also like to slit kid's soft foam
"swim noodles' and wrap around the pipe "T". They are bright colored,
large diameter, and inexpensive. The long stem of the "T" is about four or five
feet long and the cross part is around three feet wide (18 inches on either side
of the leg). This also works as an "L". The instructor holds the base and has
the caster cast into it as a firm stop for tightening loops. OR- It is held in a
position to serve as a reminder of proper stopping point on the back cast. The
idea is that the rod will not be traumatized by the stop and the student will
learn to limit their stroke and arc to prevent the collision on a back
cast.
Anchor Weight - I applied a plastic clothes pin to a 2.5 pound
weight with epoxy. The weight was acquired at a big chain store for a couple of
bucks. They are intended to be added to barbells. Set the weight on the ground
and cast over it with the opening of the close pin aimed at the caster holding
the yarn fly.
Marshmallow - I read about this technique from the Orvis school in
Tom Deck's The Orvis Fly-Casting Guide ISBN 1-59228-008-0 page 94 &
81. The small marshmallow is stuck to the tip-top and flung the proper direction
when the power application and stop are effective.
Gary Eaton, MCCI
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Fly Lines`
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From Al Crise on fly lines:
Sharkskin in Cold
Weather
I was in Mountain
Home, AR for the FFF-SOC Board meeting. I got a chance to fish on Lake Tannycomo
near Branson MO. just below the Dam. I should have given it a double
thought as we were driving in a fine blowing snow. Temp that morning was 8
degrees. We loaded in to the Cackler Craft and ran up stream, Flow was low and
wind was about 15-18 mph. I had my TFO Axiom 9 ft 5 wt rod. Loaded with my
Sharkskin WFF5F line. Even in the cold the line was limp and did not coil at
all. Shooting easy as I could ask. What I did have trouble with was my guides
were freezing up. I could not drift, a indicator and nymph, as my line would
freeze in the guides. I went to a softhackle and stripped it in. This was great
only have to dip my rod now and then or after two cast. The shark skin does
carry more water I thought to my hand. Ice would build up on my fingers,
If you are using it for
Saltwater a finger guard is something I use to protect my fingers. The Salt and
texture can cause some discomfort on the fingers. I use a neoprene sleeve over
my stripping finger any time I might get a Smoker.
Incase you do not
remember where the "Smoker" term came from My old Medalist reel had a
leather drag shoe. I used whale oil on this shoe. If the fish ran hard and fast
it would smoke the reel drag, Hence a Smoker. If you used just motor oil you
could not see your reel for the smoke. Dunking is was not something you did to
the old reels.
ol AL
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Al's point is well
taken. My "cold water" experience with the Sharkskin didn't include
freezing temperatures. Gordy
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